Skincare Products – What you need to know!

  • By J.Maxine MacGwyre, LMA, Nutrition Specialist
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  • 18 May, 2019
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Yes, I’m on my favorite soap box to elaborate on the different classifications of skincare products available on the market.

Here is what you need to know:

There are 3 types of skincare products: Over-the-Counter (OTC), Professional Products, and Prescription Products.

OTC: Per FDA guidelines, these are products that contain formulations that do not contain adequate amounts of active and/or corrective ingredients to make changes to the skin at the cellular level.

Products in this category include any skincare items that can be purchased at Walmart, Target, Sephora and even Neiman Marcus. Not to be left out of this category are Multi-Level Marketing (MLM) products such as Nerium, Arbonne, Rodan & Fields and Mary Kay…I am sure your friend is really a lovely person, but Aesthetician she is not. Let’s take an example from the Epionce homepage, letting us know their products are rated OTC, much like a G-rated movie:

The FDA defines cosmetics as “articles…applied to the human body…for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance” The majority of Epionce® products described on this website are intended to meet this definition. These Epionce® products and their associated statements have not been approved or evaluated by the FDA and are not intended to be drug products that diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or condition. 

So keep your money in your pocket and let’s keep shopping…

Professional Products: These products can be compared to an R-rated movie, guidance is required. Products in this category are sold exclusively through Aestheticians, Dermatologists or Plastic Surgeons…professionals trained in skincare, product ingredients and formulations.

These products have active and/or corrective ingredients that have a visible and provable impact on the skin thus requiring a trained eye to evaluate the skin via a thorough analysis and recommend a suitable protocol to achieve the desired skincare results. Oftentimes the manufacturers of these products have "White Papers" to back up their claims of efficacy. Lira Clinical, Circadia, SkinCeuticals, SkinMedica and Obagi are all examples of Professional Products. Saw a hand go up in the back of the class...you can buy these products on-line at Amazon or eBay?Steer Clear! Refer to the SkinRevision library to read about Product Diversion, a serious Grey Market industry issue.

Separating the men from the boys…some types of products such as those containing higher amounts of Salicylic and Benzoyl Peroxide as well as products containing SPF are heavily regulated by the FDA. Products that fall within these parameters must pass rigid quality control in FDA Approved labs. Every single batch of product for sale, sample or professional use is tested multiple times for parameters such as shelf life, consistency and efficacy. OTC products typically do not allocate the funds to participate in this kind of scrutiny but instead spend millions on flashy marketing to entice you to buy their substandard products…DO look at the man behind the curtain.

Let’s pick on Epionce once again, here is what they have to say about their SPFs:

Epionce Active Shield Lotion SPF 30+ and Ultra Shield Lotion SPF 50 are considered over-the-counter drug products. They are formulated and marketed pursuant to the FDA’s governing regulations set forth at 21 C.F.R. Part 352.

What’s in a name?…or better said, formulation. The formulation of a product is what makes a product effective or not. There is a lot of research and discovery (R&D) that go into professional formulations. OTC products may state they contain 10% lactic acid but would have a higher PH or other variables to lessen the efficacy. OTC manufacturers aren’t looking for trouble, since their products are being purchased with no guidance by the consumer, so the products are dummied down, despite the marketing hype, in order to achieve the “G rating”. Professional Products on the other hand typically have lower PHs and combine active ingredients to boost efficacy. Take Lira Pro Exfoliating Cleanser for example, this cleanser contains 10% Lactic, 1% Salicylic, Cinnamon to stimulate blood circulation so more of the active ingredients are absorbed (which is why professional cleansers should be massaged into the skin to enhance results) and Bearberry for brightening. OTC products are popularized through glamorous TV and magazine ads and sparkly, eye-catching retail displays while Professional Products put money back into R&D to develop new products or to enhance existing offerings and trust their educated channels to in turn provide value to their (my) clients…that would be you!

Prescription Products: These products are rated X…or better stated a skull and crossbones rating. These products require a prescription due to the intensity of result, which is not always a good thing.

Tretinoin (Vitamin A) is often prescribed for anti-aging or acne. While it can be effective, the side effects are usually a deterrent to consistent use. Professional versions of Vitamin A typically are buffered in such a way as to maintain the integrity of the intended result as well as to providing a balanced delivery system. Hydroquinone (HQ), a powerful skin lightener, is available by prescription when formulations exceed 2%. Conversely, most professional products incorporate technologies and formulations that prevent liver damage while achieving the same result; HQ has been banned in most countries outside the US due to the health risks.  HQ alternatives used in Professional Products include Gooseberry, Sea Fennel Stem Cells, Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Licorice Extract, Azelaic Acid, Vitamin C and Hexylresorcinol. Formulations containing high amounts of Salicylic and Benzoyl Peroxide prescribed for acne are dispensed exclusively by doctors. Accutane, super-high dose of synthetic Vitamin A prescribed for acne, and antibiotics can also be included in this category. Patients who take Accutane must have regular blood work completed to ensure liver function is not being maxed out since this treatment can prove lethal. Do not pass go, do not collect $200….go back to Professional Products and a skin healthy diet!